How to Draw a Daisy

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1. Habraac 1

   Lay in one light circle for the head.

   The circle sets the finished size and stops the petals creeping outward as you add them - the commonest way a flower drawing ends up twice its intended size. Keep it light; it comes off at the end.

   Ilaalinta Skipping the circle and letting the petals sprawl.

   Ka hubi The circle should be the size you want the finished head.

2. Habraac 2

   Draw the centre.

   Everything radiates from the centre, so it goes down first, and every later petal is judged against it. Slightly off-centre reads more naturally than dead middle - real flowers are rarely symmetrical.

   Ilaalinta Starting with petals and fitting a centre in afterwards.

   Ka hubi The centre should sit within the guide circle, roughly middle.

3. Habraac 3

   Draw the first half of the petals.

   Vary them as you go: a couple wider, one shorter, one overlapping its neighbour, and none exactly opposite another. Identical petals arranged evenly around a circle read as a printed logo, never as a flower.

   Ilaalinta Making every petal the same width and length.

   Ka hubi No two adjacent petals should match exactly.

4. Habraac 4

   Fill in the other half.

   The second half has to negotiate with the first - some petals now tuck BEHIND ones already drawn. That overlap is what gives the head depth.

   Ilaalinta Squeezing the remaining petals to fit without overlap.

   Ka hubi At least two petals should pass behind others.

5. Habraac 5

   Darken the middle disc.

   The centre is the darkest part of almost every flower - it is effectively a hole into shadow, and the eye reads depth from it. Commit to it now so the values around it have something to key against.

   Ilaalinta A pale centre, which makes the head look flat.

   Ka hubi The centre should be darker than any petal.

6. Habraac 6

   Add the stem, coming from behind the head.

   From behind the head, never from its bottom edge, and with a slight curve - a dead-straight stem reads as wire. It is thicker than you expect near the head.

   Ilaalinta A ruler-straight stem meeting the head's outline.

   Ka hubi The stem should vanish behind a petal.

7. Habraac 7

   Draw the foliage.

   Different heights, different sizes, never opposite each other in a matched pair, and each angled its own way off the stem. Leaves are the place where flower drawings go symmetrical and die.

   Ilaalinta Two matched leaves at the same height, like a logo.

   Ka hubi The two leaves should differ in height and size.

8. Habraac 8

   Put in the petal veining.

   A few veins on the nearest petals only, each following its petal's curve from base to tip. Texture on every petal flattens the head; texture on the near ones pulls them forward.

   Ilaalinta Veining every petal equally.

   Ka hubi The far petals should stay clean.

9. Habraac 9

   Shade under the petals.

   Each petal casts a small shadow on the one behind it. Those little wedges of dark are what separate the layers - without them the petals dissolve into one shape.

   Ilaalinta Shading whole petals instead of the overlaps.

   Ka hubi You should be able to tell which petal is in front.

10. Habraac 10

    Add the daisy specifics.

    Whatever identifies the species goes on now, and only now - detail added before the structure works just gets erased along with the structure. Put it where it matters most and then stop early.

    Ilaalinta Leading with the identifying detail before the form works.

    Ka hubi The flower should read as its species at arm's length.

11. Habraac 11

    Darken the very middle once more.

    Push the centre darker than feels safe, in two or three passes rather than one heavy scrub. Beginners stop two steps short of dark enough, and the centre is the one place you can commit without risk.

    Ilaalinta Timid values in the middle.

    Ka hubi Squint: the centre should read first.

12. Habraac 12

    Darken the final lines, rub out the guide.

    Weight the outer petal edges and the stem, keep veins light, and erase the guide circle completely - any surviving arc of it reads as a halo hanging behind the finished flower.

    Ilaalinta Leaving the construction circle visible.

    Ka hubi No arc of the guide circle should survive.