How to Draw a Barrel
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Draw a light horizontal for eye level.
You should be able to say if you are above or level with the rim.
Drawing on paper instead?
We straighten and clean up the photo for you. Paper counts exactly the same.
About this drawing
A barrel is the vase's belly with the jar's discipline: it swells symmetrically to a middle bulge and returns to rims of equal width - and then the two iron hoops wrap it, curving MORE than the rim ellipses because they sit on the swollen part. The hoops are contour lines that prove the bulge.
Underneath, this is the same two-ellipse build as every cup and bottle here; the object lives in the profile between them.
Step by step
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Step 1
Draw a light horizontal for eye level.
Everything about the ellipses follows from where your eye is. Decide now, consciously, and mark it - letting it drift mid-drawing is how the rim and base end up disagreeing.
Watch out Not deciding, then drawing contradictory ellipses.
Check You should be able to say if you are above or level with the rim.
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Step 2
Put the opening in as a single ellipse.
Round three or four times in one fast continuous motion and keep the best pass. Speed is what makes an ellipse smooth - drawn slowly it lumps on one side every time.
Watch out Building the ellipse from four careful arcs.
Check The rim should be symmetrical about its long axis.
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Step 3
Add the two sides of the barrel.
Start each side exactly at the widest point of the rim ellipse. A step where side meets rim is instantly visible and almost impossible to hide later.
Watch out Sides starting inside or outside the rim's ends.
Check Each side should leave the rim at its widest point.
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Step 4
Close the base, more curved than the top.
The base is further from your eye than the rim, so it is ROUNDER - same width, more curve. Getting this backwards is what makes vessels look like they are sliding off the table.
Watch out A base flatter than the rim, or a straight line.
Check The base curve should be rounder than the rim.
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Step 5
Put a second curve just inside the top.
One curve just inside the rim gives the material its thickness and turns the top from a painted disc into an opening. It follows the rim's curve, not parallel all the way round.
Watch out Skipping it, leaving a flat disc on top.
Check A visible band should separate the two curves at the front.
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Step 6
Add the shoulder or neck.
Where the profile changes is where the form lives. Draw the change on both sides at the same height - a shoulder at two heights makes the whole vessel lean.
Watch out The profile changing at different heights left and right.
Check Both sides should change shape at the same height.
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Step 7
Draw the handle with two curves.
Both ends must touch the body - a floating handle is the most common error on any vessel. And it is a strap with thickness, never a single line.
Watch out A handle drawn as one wire line, or floating.
Check Both handle ends should touch the vessel's side.
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Step 8
Finish the shape with the barrel details.
The identifying details go on last and they follow the form - a label, a pattern or a spout curves with the surface it sits on.
Watch out Flat detail pasted over a round form.
Check Any pattern should bend with the body.
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Step 9
Shade the side turned away.
A cylinder's darkest band sits just INSIDE the shadow edge, not at it. Lay the strokes vertically, following the form, and build up in passes.
Watch out Scrubbing horizontal tone across a vertical form.
Check The darkest band should sit inside the outline.
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Step 10
Leave the very edge lighter than the band inside it.
Light bounces off the table back onto the very edge, so leave a thin lighter strip at the outline. That strip is what makes the form read as round rather than flat-shaded.
Watch out Shading right up to the edge.
Check A light strip should separate shading from outline.
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Step 11
Draw the shadow underneath.
Darkest where it touches the base, softening as it spreads. The cast shadow is what anchors the vessel - without it the thing floats no matter how well you shaded it.
Watch out A detached grey blob nearby.
Check The shadow should touch the base.
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Step 12
Firm the keepers and rub out the guides.
Weight the rim and the silhouette, erase the eye-level guide, and check the two ellipses one last time - they are what the whole drawing stands on.
Watch out Leaving the eye-level line in.
Check Rim and silhouette should be the darkest lines.
What it looks like finished
The same drawing with every guide erased and only the lines you meant to keep, at the weight you meant them to be. If yours still has centre lines and blocking-in shapes in it, this is the step you have not done yet - and it takes about thirty seconds.
Yours will not look like this, and it is not supposed to. This is the construction with the scaffolding taken away, not a drawing somebody made to be admired - the point is to show you which of your lines were guides.
What this one actually teaches you
What transfers is drawing what an ellipse looks like rather than the circle you know it to be - the clearest possible case of observation beating knowledge.
The barrel is the vessel family's proof that contour curvature encodes girth: the same hoop drawn at rim and at bulge takes two different curves, and the difference IS the swelling. It is the most exact ellipse-degree exercise on the site.
Practise these: Line confidence Proportion Value range
What you need
A pencil, kept light until the last step, and an eraser you will actually use. The construction is deliberately drawn to be removed.
If it's going wrong
If it reads as a cylinder, the sides are straight: a barrel's profile bows out to its widest at the middle - each side is one continuous outward curve.
If the hoops flatten it, they match the rim's curve: hoops at the bulge must curve MORE than the rims, because they wrap a fatter cross-section closer to your eye line.
If the staves look like stripes, there are too many: two or three light vertical seams, bowing with the profile, suggest all of them.
Print the steps
Take it away from the screen. The step sheet prints on one page.
Questions people ask
- How do I draw the hoops on a barrel?
- Curving MORE than the rim ellipses - they wrap the swollen middle, a fatter cross-section, so their arc is deeper. Hoops matching the rim curve flatten the bulge instantly.
- How do I draw barrel staves?
- Two or three light vertical seams that bow with the profile - wider apart at the bulge, converging at the rims. They are the pumpkin's segment lines stood on end.
- What shape is a barrel's side?
- One continuous outward curve from rim to rim, widest at the middle, identical both sides. A straight-sided barrel is just a tube with hoops.
- Can I draw a barrel on paper instead of the canvas?
- Yes - print the step sheet and draw beside it. The ellipse practice actually benefits from paper, where your whole arm is free, and a photo of the page gets measured exactly like a canvas drawing.
- How do I draw the top of a barrel?
- As one fast ellipse, going round several times and keeping the best pass. Its roundness depends on your eye level - decide that first.
- Why does my barrel look like it is tipping over?
- The base ellipse disagrees with the rim. The base is always slightly ROUNDER than the rim, never flatter, and both must be the same width.
- Can a beginner draw a barrel?
- Yes, and it is worth it - the ellipse practice transfers directly to wheels, plates, hats and eyes. There is a finish-early step partway through.
- How do I shade a barrel?
- Vertically, following the form, darkest just inside the shadow edge with a thin light strip at the very edge - that strip is what makes it read as round.
- What is the hardest part of drawing a barrel?
- The two ellipses agreeing with each other. Everything else is forgiving; the rim and base are what the eye checks first.